Art Worlds in Ghana

You should come.

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I’ve mentioned Professor Ablade Glover before. He is quite a fellow – he runs the Artists Alliance Gallery, which is better than the National Museum: four sumptuous floors of the most gorgeous Ghanaian paintings and sculpture. Fancy funeral caskets in the shape of fish and Nike shoes grace the ground floor, along with George Hughes and Larry Otoo paintings. As you travel up, you see all kinds of work: unusual wooden sculptures, jazzy Motown ladies, tranquil water images, vibrant color canvases, and African market scenes both traditional and quirky.

Professor Glover and Larry at the Artists Alliance

Professor Glover made the Artists Alliance when there was no place for contemporary Ghanaian painters to show their work. He created a space and community for the artists, and he began to draw the attention of people from the west. Wiz points out that this should not be the ultimate goal, but unfortunately the pattern has been that success tends to reach Ghanaian artists when they gain recognition in the west. In any case, it is no small thanks to Professor Glover that many of his artists have a following all over the world.

The man’s own work is amazing: textures of blossoming yellow trees, and blue ladies with a tilt to their chins and attitude in their hips. The man himself is wonderfully kind and accessible, especially considering he is perhaps the most successful painter in Ghana. And also funny. So funny. He is busy, but he will always make time for you.

Everyone says the art world in Ghana is down in the dumps. The government doesn’t fund it, schools hardly teach it, and the market for it is practically nonexistent. In some secondary schools, I’ve read, subjects like agriculture, economics, and management can even count as an art credit.

Larry Otoo at the Artists Alliance in Accra (shh you're not supposed to take pictures)

When I first got to Ghana, I was seriously disheartened by the lack of art or innovation in daily life around the city. I come from New York, where there are world-class museums, galleries in every neighborhood, coffee shops with poetry readings, guerilla art on graffitied garage doors, and sculpture in the tiles of subway walls.

In Ghana, you can count all the museums in the country on, well…three hands. The Accra National Museum is frankly pathetic. It has two large rooms and zero contemporary art. You’ll see posters for parties, clubs, and casinos all over the city, but pity the fool looking for the whereabouts of the art scene.

There is plenty of tourist art. Men hawk paintings and wooden carvings on the street. You can find bracelets and beads anywhere. But the vendors are just trying to make a buck, and they give the tourists exactly what they are looking for. Each work is like the next; there is no innovation.

And it’s no wonder. How can people afford to be interested in art when many of them are struggling just to put food on the table? Coming from New York prices, I smiled to myself when people would complain, “Ghana is expensive-o!” But it’s true: compared to wages, living expenses are very high. If your child says he wants to be an artist, you are going to worry how he is going to eat or support himself, let alone a family. There is no Williamsburg, no obvious community of artists to reach out to, and the government sure won’t support your projects.

After my first few days in Accra, I spent a month in a village, where the concerns of the art world left my mind. Then I came back to Accra in July, and I found my initial perceptions most wonderfully shattered.

The government might not do anything for art, but the artists are doing it themselves. There are a number of established artists, all of them friends with each other, most of whom have their main market in the West, who are taking steps to foster the art world and create a space for art in Ghana. They have their own galleries, their own gatherings, their own followings. They support themselves, and some of them support the next generation of aspiring artists too.

I befriended a number of the top artists in Ghana simply by contacting them (email, Facebook, phone) and asking to visit their studios. I found them through George Hughes, a well-known Ghanaian painter and performance artist currently in upstate New York who came to Haverford last semester for the symposium Look Both Ways (organized by my prof Ruti Talmor, who does anthropology work in Ghana). I ended up acting in George’s performance at Haverford last minute, playing a sort of golden nymph in a strange ritual. Anyway, he recommended a few of his artist friends in Ghana to get in touch with, and these people slowly chipped away at my perceptions and worries.

So I met Larry Otoo, Kofi Setordji, Wiz Kudowor, and Ablade Glover, all amazing artists who have found great success despite the lack of support for art in Ghana (though many did, luckily, have the support of their families). Larry is one of the gentlest and kindest Ghanaians I have met and became my dear friend. Kofi runs an incredible art space for the public and teaches the next generation. Wiz makes warm, gorgeous paintings and speaks sharply on the Ghanaian art world. Ablade, well, is the most renowned painter in Ghana and founded the Artists Alliance, which I personally think should be considered the national museum.

Get a taste of my adventures with these artists in the coming posts…