Art Worlds in Ghana

Sunday, June 13

It was amazing to be in Ghana for the football match against Serbia (soccer to you Americans). I saw it from the GBC clubhouse (Ghana Broadcast Corporation), cause Kelvin had to film there for Haverford prof Jesse Shipley’s documentary on the world cup (Jesse is the person who connected me with Kelvin).

We were gathered around a big projection outside where there was a huge array of chairs. Few people were sitting in them, though. They were all dancing, shouting, and blowing kazoos. People kept grabbing my hand and asking who I supported. They were thrilled when I would say, “Ghana, of course.”

Some were snapping pictures, and Kelvin wasn’t the only one filming. GBC had its own video camera on site, and every now and then we would see ourselves on the screen.

When Ghana scored, the crowd went wild. Everyone was jumping up and down, running through the aisles, shouting, and waving Ghana flags.

I was having a great time, although I felt a little out of place as practically the only person not covered in red, gold, and green. And I mean literally covered. There was one man clothed only in body paint and a pair of tighty whities.

At first I was sitting toward the front with Kelvin’s friend Lexis (Kelvin was on the side filming), but later I moved to the back to get some space and write in my journal while I watched. After Ghana won, a man with a camera ran up to me and said that the man with the mic wanted to ask me a question. People were beckoning me forward. I got up and headed to the front.

The man asked me where I was from and said he was going to ask me a quick question. In a few moments, I saw us on the screen.

“We have a visitor from the US,” he said, patting my shoulder. He turned to me and asked, “How are you feeling?”

“Great!” I shouted over the crowd. “I’m happy Ghana won.”

A moment later, when I saw people from across Accra being interviewed by other people with G-TV mics, I realized that it wasn’t just us at the clubhouse watching ourselves on the screen. I’d been on Ghana National TV.

A minute later, we were up on the screen again. Surrounded by wild fans, I danced and cheered as I watched myself on TV.

Saturday, June 12

Okay, now I know why I barely got one “obruni” in Accra before. It was because the whole time, I was with Kelvin and Lexis.

I went out in Accra by myself for the first time today, and I got a million obrunis. I also got my first marriage proposal (I was told I’d get a ton), although I suppose it wasn’t a proposal exactly. The man just said, “I am going to marry you. How do you feel about that?”

I was supposed to meet up with Naa, another Haverford student, but I never heard from her. It turned out she’d been locked out of her house without her phone. Anyway, I decided to go out on my own, and Kelvin gave me directions.

I went all over Accra: to the National Museum; Makola Market; and Osu, a district with restaurants, shopping, and clubs.

The museum was small but interesting. It had an upstairs and a downstairs that were maybe the size of two rooms at the Brooklyn Museum, and I was the only visitor. There were some interesting artifacts and photographs, and a lot about the first Ghanaian President, Kwame Nkrumah. Sadly, I think I was most excited by the bathroom, which had a mirror. There are never mirrors here, not in bathrooms or anywhere. I know it sounds vain, but I’ve missed them. I was so excited I didn’t mind that the toilet didn’t flush.

Afterwards, I headed to Makola. I managed to get through the market without getting haggled into anything, though I’m looking forward to going back later and bargaining. I bought some coconut juice on the street to sustain me through the tro-tro to Osu. I drank it straight from the rough brown shell.

In Osu, I managed to shake off the street vendors who were attacking me. I tried my first Ghanaian ice cream at the downstairs in Frankie’s hotel – vanilla cake gelato. I went upstairs to use the bathroom and they had a mirror too! And liquid soap. What an exciting day. I ambled out with my ice cream in hand, and the US-UK match was just starting. There was a huge crowd gathered around a screen in the street. I sat myself on the curb and made friends with the kids next to me.

I didn’t get lost the whole day until it was time to go home. I was standing on the corner waiting for a tro-tro or shared taxi, but none of them were going in my direction. Everyone at the outdoor café wanted to talk to me, but no one wanted to tell me I was on the wrong side of the street.

When I finally got a tro-tro, I took it too far and missed my stop. Ugh. Kelvin and Lexis came to pick me up in the car, and I got home in one piece.

It had been a long and adventurous day. A good day in Accra.